How To Turn A Shed Into A Gym On A Budget

By The Garden Room Guy | Build

So, you want to know how to turn a shed into a gym – well you've come to the right place - because this is the definitive, budget-friendly guide to how to create your very own gym-shed - or SHEDNASIUM - as I like to call it!



For many years I've been spending lots of £££ on gym memberships.

I’ve been to most of the big players in London, from LA Fitness, Fitness First, Soho Gym, Virgin Active, the London Fitness Network and Easy Gym, as well as some smaller independent outfits.

Paying anything from £20 a month, all the way up to £70! I only ever used the free-weight facilities, so I figured I’m paying for the pools, spas, cardio equipment, etc when i’m not even using them.

Not a great use of my money.

Now while I did enjoy going to the gym, it was always a little bit out of the way from where I lived or worked, so felt like even more of a chore to go.

Now i’m pretty bad at motivating myself to get my ass in the gym anyway, so any little detour from where I needed to be became an added excuse not to go.

So I figured I’d stop blowing my cash every month, and start investing it in a gym of my very own. That way, i’d have everything I need, and no excuses to not go – I’d practically live in it!

One thing I will miss about going to an actual gym is the eye candy. 😉 

Anyway, if you want to know how I built my gym and what I put in it, keep reading… i’ll go into a fair bit of detail to be helpful, so if you’ve already got your shed up and prep’d for a home gym, and just want some ideas on what should go into it, skip down to the ‘Gym Equipment’ section below.

Please note: throughout this site you’ll notice text highlighted in bold – these are links to the actual products I bought for my home gym. Most of them were bought through Amazon as they 1) tend to have the cheapest prices, and 2) have user reviews which helped me to decide to purchase in the first place.

These links are affiliate links, so I may get a tiny commission if you buy anything from them. The links open in a new window.


My primary workout routine is the ‘StrongLifts 5×5’ routine.

If you’re not familiar with this routine – it’s simple: three exercises, three times a week, 45 minutes per workout. You do 5 sets of 5 reps per exercise – hence the ‘5×5′ name.

This routine is great for a home gym because – having only a few exercises – it requires little equipment. If you don’t know anything about it this site will keep you occupied for a long while – there’s some great info on there!

The Stronglifts 5×5 exercises include Squats, Bench Press, Deadlift, Overhead Press and Barbell Rows. So we’ll need a squat rack, a bench, and some weights and bars, etc.

But first we’ll need somewhere to put all of this man-building iron… a home gym shed.

I live in London, in a small two bedroom flat with my girlfriend. Within the flat itself there is no room for gym equipment – but thankfully, we’ve got a fairly large garden. So I decided that I needed an outbuilding of some sorts...

I wanted to spend the least amount of money possible, ideally less that £1000 all in (shed gym and all equipment).

So let's see what you need for a home gym in garden a shed...


After a lot of research I decided on a 8x10ft Overlap Apex shed from Tiger Sheds.

I could have gone larger but my budget wouldn’t stretch to it. I think a good size would be an 10x14ft shed which would probably cost £200 more.

My advice would be to go for the biggest you can afford.

Here are the shed specs:

Cladding Material

Overlap Board

Framing Style


Roof Material

Tongue & Groove Board

Floor Material

Tongue & Groove Board

Door Style

Single Fully Boarded Tongue & Groove Door

Window Style

All Fixed

Glazing Thickness


Roof Covering

Green Mineral Felt

Locking System

Shed Lock and Key + Turn Button

Cladding Thickness


Framing Size

28mm x 44mm

Roof Thickness


Floor Thickness


Door Size

785mm x 1692mm

Window Size

457mm x 610mm

Glazing Material



Red Cedar Water Based


Selected European Softwoods

Shed Store also make some decent sheds and have a lot of positive reviews for their 8x10ft Overlap Apex shed. From the specs it looks a bit sturdier, and possibly a bit cheaper too, so worth a look.  

If money was not an issue i’d have built/bought something more along the lines of the outbuilding on the top of this post (or below) - with a size of around 20ftx10ft, and a roof height of around 9ft+. But this could easily cost £3000-5000 as a DIY project, which is a lot more than I want to spend.

This kind of thing (below) would fit perfectly in my garden, but fully installed this bad-boy comes in at £39,000. Have a drool over some of the other home garden gyms offerings on this site:

So, with my shed chosen, the only issue was the internal height of it which wasn’t really tall enough for me to stand up in at the eaves (the wall height where it connects to the roof).

I’m 6”2, so I needed something taller.

Shed Store do have taller shed options, but that would mean adding £200-300 extra to the costs – so I settled for the base model, with an view to modifying it when it arrived.

Now, unless you’re a little handy with a power tool, i’d pay the extra to get the height – the higher the better really so that you can fully extend a barbell above your head without fear of it crashing into the ceiling and breaking either the roof, or you.

There are also some silly planning laws restricting the height of out-buildings in the UK – anything over 2.5 meters high needs planning permission, so probably best to check this out before you shell out a shed-load on your sky-scraper shed.


Once you get your shed the first thing you should do before putting it together is to paint it with a weatherproof paint – I used some basic Ronseal One Coat Fence Life paint which I’d bought to paint the…well, fences.

There are a few other good options, which need repainting less often, but they cost a little more. I was doing it on the cheap, and had a tub left over so didn't need to buy any more especially.

Ronseal One Coat Fence Life

Some alternative options:

Cuprinol Garden Shades

Ronseal Fence Life Plus

Johnstone's Garden Colours

To prevent your shed from rotting you’ll need to repaint it every year, which isn’t too big of a deal.

Now i’m not going to go into detail of how you actually build a shed as yours should come with some comprehensive instructions– if it didn't, then here is a pretty good guide below (which I found on another shed manufacturer's site), but I will offer a few tips further down, based on my experiences.

Source: Tiger Sheds


Whilst you may be scratching your head whilst thinking about how to turn a shed into a gym, let me break everything down as much as possible, starting with all the tools you'll need to get started.

  • Cordless Power Drill
  • Quality Wood-Specific Drill Bit and Screw Driver Set
  • Quality Wood Screws (assorted sizes)
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    Basic Hand Screwdriver Set
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    Builders Gloves
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    Saw (optional)
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    Electric Jigsaw (optional)

In order to build you gym shed you’ll need some essential tools. Your most important friend will be a cordless power drill.

Make sure you get one with two batteries so you are not having to take a 10-hour tea-break while your dead battery charges up again.

Also, if you can – get a Lithium Ion battery drill rather than one with a NiCad battery. They last longer, charge quicker and have a better power output.

My drill of choice was a Black & Decker 18V Lithium Ion Hammer Drill. It came with two batteries for around £75, and it was a brand I felt like I could trust.

But here are some other drills below which are equally as capable for a similar price range. If I had the money, I would have probably gone with the DeWalt, as it's a more high-end brand, but the B+D got the job done without any issues.

BLACK+DECKER 18 V Lithium-Ion Drill

Some other good drills I looked at in a similar price range:

DeWalt 18V Li-Ion Combi Drill

Bosch PSB 1800 18V Drill Driver

Terratek 18V Drill Driver

Next we need a set of quality drill bits for wood. I got this Bosch Titanium Drill and Screwdriver Set below but there are plenty of other options with good reviews here. The reason I got these particular ones is because they also had all the common screwdriver bits too, which makes screwing screws SOOOO much faster (and with less blisters!).

Bosch Titanium Drill and Screwdriver Set, 70 Pieces

Some other good drills I looked at in a similar price range:

Makita P-44024 Drill Bit Set

Bosch 2607010608 Drill Bit Set

You’ll also need some manual screwdrivers (both Phillips cross head and flat head) for any awkward areas where you can’t get the cordless driver into the gap, such as the very corners of the walls where they meet the floor.

Next, some decent builders’s gloves like these (from Screwfix), so you don’t get blisters on your hands, or splinters from the rough cut wood. Even with gloves at the end of the day after constructing the shed my hands were sore, and the next day it felt like I had gone a few rounds with a brick wall.

A decent hammer. You might think a hammer is a hammer, but let me assure you - this is not an area you want to make a pound shop visit… I bought a hammer from a well known DIY store and the bloody end flew off when i hit a rather stubborn nail, narrowly missing my face! So be warned!

I got the Stanley 1-51-488 Blue Strike Claw Hammer. Cheap, and didn’t kill me. And judging by the reviews, this hammer hasn't self-harmed anyone else either.

You'll also need a assortment of wood screws (Screwfix). I didn’t want my shed to blow down every time a Storm Abigail, or Hurricane Harvey came along, so I used A LOT.

If - like me - you're planning on doing some modifications to your shed, then you'll most likely need a saw. Also, for cutting any sheet material - such as OSB board for the flooring (i'll get into this shortly) - then an electric Jigsaw will be very handy indeed. Cutting one of these sheets with just a hand saw is not an enjoyable experience!  I just got a basic Spear & Jackson Predator B9822 Universal 22inch Woodsaw and the Bosch PST 700 E Compact Jigsaw from Amazon.


Whilst I actually built my Shednasium on my own, I'd HIGHLY recommend you get someone at least half-competent to help you, and you’ll get the job done MUCH quicker, and you'll also be more likely to retain all of your extremities at the end.

You’ll also definitely want some beers (as payment to your help?!) – it’s thirsty work!


To begin, the base of the shed is the most important step in the build. If you screw this up, you’ll end up with a wonky-ass shed. All you need to remember is make sure the base is completely level.

Damn, I knew I forgot something in the tools list! A Spirit Level!

I personally bought this set (STACO 32039 Spirit Level Set), purely because it was one of the cheaper options, and didn’t really know why a more expensive one would be any better. I got a set because I knew there’d be different distance spans that I’d need to ensure were level… the most important being the base, which is almost 3 meters across, so this set was good as the longest one was 1.8m (1800mm). There is also a 1200mm and 600mm levels included in the set.

The main thing to ensure is that the base is level and square. The moment you’ll realise that the base isn’t level is when you’re closing the shed door for the first time and it doesn’t shut properly.

This is really annoying, trust me.

Personally, I laid my shed on several railway sleepers that I picked up from a local builders merchants. Below is not actually a photo of my particular build, as I stupidly forgot to take any photos of the base of mine, but this is essentially how I did it. I used 5 railway sleepers, all laid out in the same direction (parallel to one-another), at equal spacing between each other, from the front of the shed (door opening side), to the back.

I made sure that they were all level and square by laying them on top of a couple inches of builders sharps sand – you’ll need to do it like this or you’ll never get it level.

The next thing I did was to increase the height of the shed panels. This was a must as I didn’t want to have to hunch over to get in there.

Like I said before, if you have the money just buy a taller shed – I was skint so I went the DIY approach.

When I ordered my shed I also ordered some extra bits of overlap paneling and lengths of framing wood. Essentially I made some ‘mini’ 1 ft-high panels which I screwed to the bottoms of the 4 original panels. In reality though this was a MASSIVE hassle to do and took the best part of a day just to make these.

Again, if you can – buy a taller shed.

The door also looks a little odd, but it doesn’t bother me really.

Another drawback of doing it this way is that it decreases the structural integrity of the shed – in other words it makes it weaker. I ‘fixed’ this by screwing it down with just shy of a million screws (give or take).

Honestly, just buy a taller shed and save yourself a migraine!

One other issue I came across that could have you banging your head against a wall, is the roof truss. [insert image of roof truss] This is used to stop the roof from sagging at the centre. It’s not a good idea to not install it, so what i did – even though it was higher than head-height – was modify it a little so that it was higher up. This allows me a bit more ‘head room’ for lifting weights above my head.

Even with the height extension to my shed it isn’t possible to lift a weight full above my head without it hitting the ceiling. The only way to do this is to either lift it directly underneath the apex of the roof, parallel to the window, or simply to do overhead presses in a seated position.

I chose to do the latter.

Not ideal, but compromises had to happen on my budget.

For the love of god, just get a taller shed.

With my super-tall shed now built (but still, not really tall enough), standing inside, the floor feels pretty strong – you could jump up and down without fear of falling through. However, because we’ll be putting some serious weights in there you’ll definitely need to beef it up. I used some sheets of 18mm thick outdoor grade OSB board to cover the entire floor and spread the load of any added weight.


Now, if you’re using your shed as a gym, and using any kind of heavy weight - you’ll need more than just a sheet of OSB board. You’ll need something to cushion the weights as you invariably drop them down hard.

As a bare minimum you’ll want some Spongy Floor Mats in place. Again, I got mine from Amazon, but i've since seen these on offer in Halfords for a bit cheaper, so worth checking there before buying online (think you can click & collect things on the Halfords website).

I’d personally go for some proper Heavy Duty Rubber Floor Mats, rather than the ones I originally bought which are just made from EVA foam, as the ones I got have deteriorated quite quickly under the force of the weights on them over time. 

To save money, you could just position the mats underneath the weight plates on the barbell where they touch the ground, but it would look much better to go all-out and cover the entire floor of the shed. This will also help with the thermal insulation (more on this in a minute). These mats will help protect the floor, whilst also keeping things quiet – so you can smash out that midnight gym session without the neighbours batting an eyelid.


Once you’ve sorted the floor, next you want to turn your attention to insulating your home gym shed. This will help keep the shed warm in the winter, and cool in the summer months.

I used two main products;

1) Simple polystyrene insulation sheets (the big white dalmatian-dotted things shown in image above), which can be bought online or from your local DIY store.

2) Thermawrap - foil-backed insulation roll. You’ll need to cover every panelled surface, and most importantly, the ceiling. For the ThermaWrap insulation, I used a heavy duty stable gun to staple it to the shed interior walls and ceiling.

 For the poly-board, I just stuck it on with some ‘No More Nails’ type adhesive.

You’ll also need an adhesive application gun to apply this, if you haven’t got one already.

Try to butt the edges of the polystyrene up tight together so that there are no gaps.

If you want you could go over all of this with hardboard for a neater look (and paint it), but for me it I didn’t think it was worth the added expense.


Now, my primary reason for having a shed was to have a home gym, but that didn’t mean I could get away without also using it as storage!

Like I said before, our flat isn’t the biggest, and i’ve got a lot of stuff, so I needed to reserve some of the shed for storage.

I decided to build some heavy duty shelves at the back of the shed. It was a real simple design, 3 uprights, with L-Brackets (also known as corner braces) at various heights, and chipboard shelves resting on them.

I screwed it all together so that it was as solid as a rock. This shelving unit can hold just about anything.

I based the shelf spaces/sizes on some large plastic storage boxes that I bought online which have sealable lids, keeping everything dust and mould-free.

I think the whole shelving unit is only around 18 inches (45cm) deep so it doesn’t eat too much into my gym space. Result.


Next we want to look at getting power to your shed so that you can hook up lighting and a heater for the winter, or fan in the summer.

Having a couple of sockets in there is really handy, especially if you want to plug in the lawn mower or a radio. You might even want to chuck a TV in there – and create a proper little home-gym-man-shed.

Getting power to your shed is a professionals job – you really don’t want to be messing around with electricity. But that doesn’t mean you can’t get all DIY on it’s ass.

Basically you can do all of the grunt work and get a professional in to just connect it all up and certify it. I don’t know the in’s and out’s of all this so i’ll just tell you what I did.

Firstly you’ll need to run a wire from your house to your shed.

The best (and safest) place for this is underground. I think (please don’t quote me on this) that you’re meant to bury the cable 1 meter (3ft) down. This seems a bit excessive to me, but I don’t make the rules. I went for just over 2ft (24 inches). You’ll need an armour-plated cable and some ‘electricity-cable’ tape, to bury 12 inches under the surface (above the cable), so that anyone digging around is warned that there is a cable below.

The cable should be completely shielded from the elements, so where it enters the shed you’ll want some kind of protective shield/channel.

I just used some plastic tubing which should stop the cable getting damaged. You can pick these up from most DIY stores, Screwfix, etc or on Amazon.

Here is some blurb I came across when researching getting power to my shed:

Firstly you need to be aware that this work is Part P building regulation notifiable and you therefore must register your intent to carry out the work and get the part P consent from your local building control office. The fees vary but typically are around £200 – £300 depending on the local authority you’re in.

No conduit or ducting is necessary if you use a Steel Wire Armoured XLPE cable. and ideally you would be better off using a 4mm cable and fitting a small two way fuse board at the shed end that feeds two circuits one for lighting and one for power.

All work you undertake must be fully compliant to BS 7671:2008 and once completed the building inspector will check and test what you have done and if it passes they will issue the relevant part P certificate etc.

You may find it’s actually cheaper to hire a Part P registered electrician.

Alternatively you could take a risk and break the law and not notify the work (not recommended as its a £5000 fine!).”

So worth bearing this in mind – you don’t want Her Majesty’s government after you. Or setting your new Shednasium on fire!

Here’s a basic diagram for getting power into your fancy home gym shed.

It’s a good idea to have a switch inside your home so that you can isolate the power, for instance, if you’re going on holiday.

The diagram also doesn’t show the light switch – please close your eyes now and try to imagine that I didn’t forget to add this to the diagram.

OK, so the first thing you’ll want is a mini consumer unit installed in the shed. This is where your power cable will go (from the house). This should contain an RCD, which basically protects the circuit if something goes wrong, and saves you from getting fried.

I opted for this Garage Consumer Unit (pictured) – it’s cheap, has good reviews and does the job.

There are quite a few other options available on Amazon or places like Screwfix - but they all pretty much do the same job and for around the same kind of price.

For lighting I used one of these Byron Elro Bulkhead Lights with a 60 watt-equivalent energy saving bulb. They’re designed to be used outdoors, which some might think is unnecessary in a shed, but I decided the added protection would be worth it as i’m likely to knock it with a barbell.

Plus if my shed roof ever did get a leak, this light should further reduce the risk of me frying.

I also chose to install a weatherproof plug socket just in case – specifically, this one: Masterplug WP22RCD Double Outdoor Socket.

Again, just want it all to be as safe as possible.

You’ll also want a light switch. The one i chose was the most basic model, the Masterplug WP12 IP66 Outdoor Weatherproof 20AX Single 2 Way Switch. Now I think it’s important that this is waterproof – as you’ll be coming in to the shed from outside, so if it’s raining out, you’ll be wet – and you don’t want to be flicking switches with soggy fingers – and getting fried.

So, now we’ve got the power you might want to get a bit of heat in there.

Before we talk about heat though, let’s talk ventilation – woooo yeah – sexy!


If you’re going to heat your shed, you need ventilation, so that any warm moist air in their can get out.

There’s likely going to be a lot of warm moist air in there anyway from your sweaty-workouts.

Now when you add in a heater, this effect compounds.

If you don’t have adequate ventilation then you’ll start to get mould growing – which is the last thing you want! And once mould takes hold it’s a pain in the ass to get rid of it.

There’s a couple of ways to go – firstly, and as a minimum, you’ll want some air vents in there, one at each end of the shed. These vents (​Map Hardware Brown Plastic Air Vent 9" x 3") would do nicely. One at the top at the back of your shed (to let out the warm moist air), and one in the bottom of the door of the shed (the cold air intake). 

You could also add an extractor fan (so you'd only need one passive vent low down, and extractor at top rear of shed).

This would be your best bet if you’re in a damp environment. I had an old extractor fan laying around (Manrose 4-inch Standard Bathroom Extractor Fan) from after having the bathroom redecorated, so I cut out a hole in the back (at the top) of my shed and wired it up to the light, so it comes on when the light is switched on.

There is also a pull-switch on it so I can turn it off if i want (more on wiring in a bit).
I only really use the extractor when it’s really cold and I have the heater on.

This is the heater I bought, just a super basic Electrical 2 KW Convector Heater.

It’s compact and does the job – I don’t want the shed really warm, just to take off the chill before I workout.

I tend to turn it off when I start working out as I get pretty hot anyway. Whatever heater you get, make sure it’s a convector heater as they’ll heat up the shed quickest.

And what’s great is if you couple it with a plug-in thermostat switch, you can set it so that it’ll only come on at a certain temperature – which is handy, and will also provide some frost protection for everything in your shed.

I haven’t got one yet, but will be ordering one shortly as it’s starting to get cooooold.

Ace. Your shed is now essentially a mini house!

I’ve got some more tips further down on keeping it all safe and secure – which you won’t want to skip as there are some right ‘ol thieving buggers about.

But for now, it’s time to fill it with muscle-building gym gear. Here’s what I would recommend…


The exercises I do are as follows; Squats, Bench Press, Deadlift, Overhead Press and Barbell Rows. That’s basically it. I do have a separate chin up bar located on the side of my house, but i’ll get into that a bit later.

So, squats – the best exercise there ever was.

To do these safely you’ll need a Power Rack. The problem with power racks though is they’re BIG. In fact, too big for my shed. 🙁

So, unless you’ve got a huge skyscraper shed, another way to squat safely is with a Power Rack’s little brother – a Squat Rack.

Both Power Racks and Squat Racks do the same thing in terms of safety – they have catchers to prevent the barbell from falling to the ground/on your neck.

The reason why a power rack is considered better is because it is much sturdier and can handle a lot more weight. You can also do chin-ups off them which is a luxury I cannot unfortunately have.

The squat rack I chose is the Bodymax CF480 Heavy Duty Multi Press Walk-In Squat Rack, which is great, sturdy as a rock – and fits nicely into my shed.

The rack is fully adjustable height and width-wise, and does everything I need from it. And most importantly, you can also use this rack for bench press.

It’s really helpful having those bar-catchers there too, for when you’re working out on your own (which is all the time) as you don’t want to get stuck under a heavy bar. This happened to me in a gym once- it wasn’t fun at all. 

Next you’ll need some weights to actually lift.

Now, given that we’re in a confined space, a normal 7ft Olympic barbell would just be too dangerous to wield as it could get caught-up on stuff. So after some research I came across this Bodymax 6ft Olympic Barbell.

The difference between this 6 foot bar and all other 6 foot bars I've seen is that the distance between the two sleeves is the same as a 7 foot bar – which means it’ll fit any standardised squat rack/power rack you use it on. This is very good news my friends.

The compromise however, comes in the form of shorter sleeves – meaning you cannot put as many weight plates on it.

At a push you can get 4x20kg weight plates on each end, so including the bar (18kg) you’re looking at a maximum weight of around 178kg – which is pretty heavy. If you want more you could always get some 25kg plates, bringing the max up to 218kg.

I noticed on the actual specs for the bar that it mentions a max weight of up to 350kg – so, it’s pretty tough.

Now the reason why you need a more expensive olympic barbell and not a skinny cheap one is because they have rotatable sleeves – which allows you to lift more weight. They’re also heavier, which is good. AND they have a chunkier bar, which is easier to grip when lifting heavy weights.

They also have a 2 inch hole diameter for… you guessed it – olympic weight plates! Just get this bar, it’s very good.

Amazon also have another 6ft Olympic barbell (they also have 5ft & 7ft versions too) - the TNP Accessories Olympic Barbell - which has some good reviews, however I've not tried this one personally.

Now if you want to pump some iron, you’ll need some iron to pump, in the form of Olympic weight plates.

There are many types you can get, and I was surprised at how expensive they can be. I just found the cheapest Bodymax Olympic Weight Set, which includes 2x20kg, 2x15kg, 2x10kg, 4x5kg, 4×2.5kg, and 4×1.25kg weight plates.

You’ll probably want to add a couple more 20kg / 25kg plates for heavier deadlifts and squats, but this set should get you going.

You’ll also need some spring clamps to keep the weights from slipping off your bar, so again I just found the cheapest which did the job (and had good reviews on Amazon), these Power Guidance Barbell Clamp Collars.

Next up, to do bench press you’ll need a bench.

You’ll need a sturdy one to give you the confidence to lift heavier weights. The last thing you want is for the bench to be rocking about when you’ve got 100kg+ above your head.

The bench I went for was the Bodymax CF430+ (Plus Series) Heavy Duty Flat/Incline/Decline Bench. This is a real heavy duty beast, and will hold up to 365 KG of total body weight. That should be enough for most people in a shednasium-type environment! This bench was about £150. 

However, if you're not too bothered about incline/decline, then the cheapest & most robust option is the Bodymax CF302 Flat Bench

It again is rock solid, and about half the price of the CF430+ (around £70 on Amazon). One negative of this bench is its max user weight of 200 KG, which is something to take into consideration depending on how big you are/how much you're lifting. It is also much more compact when compared to the CF430+, so depending on your shed size, this could be beneficial.

If you’re taller/heavier i’d probably suggest a longer bench, more heavy duty bench.

That’s all of the main gym equipment covered, but there are a few more things you might want to get to keep your home gym organised.

For instance, a 'weight plate tree' is a great way to keep everything neat and tidy. I got one because my weights tended to end up all over the place which not only because annoying, but dangerous when you trip over them.

As it’s just a functional thing for me, I just opted for the cheapest which does the job (and holds all 145kg of my weights), the Bodypower Olympic Weight Tree.

I’ve also got a stand-alone HOMCOM Dip Station which I managed to squeeze into the corner of the shed. It’s a bit tight in there but I can manage to use it without too much trouble. Make sure your shed has some good head height though or else you’ll be bashing you melon in.

I also like to do pull-ups and chin ups but like I said – my shed is too low for a pull-up bar/power rack cage. So I decided to buy a separate bar which I could mount to the outside wall on the side of my flat.

The bar I went for is this Mirafit Pull Up Bar.

Once fitted into the brick wall it’s really solid.

I weigh around 15 stone and it doesn’t budge, and never have I felt uneasy on it. Just make sure you mount it on a strong wall, where the bricks are in good condition. It is rated for a max of 150 KG.

The bar 'arms' are made of steel, and powder-coated to protect it from the elements. When I was installing I managed to scratch the powder coating in several places, and now there is some rust stains appearing. This doesn’t bother me really, but be careful when installing yours. This will happen with most chin up bars that are made from steel (the majority of them), so nothing to worry about.

You could easily give it a wipe with some rust inhibitor and then touch up the scratches with some car spray paint, or i’m sure even a dab of the girlfriend’s nail varnish will do.


So, with my original budget of £1000, you can see I've gone over a fair amount. I'm not worried though, because I know that I bought quality equipment which will last for many years to come. The shed I bough from Tiger Sheds is guaranteed to be rot-free for 10 years, and with regular re-painting with a decent wood paint (every 2-3 years or so) it should keep this shednasium in tip-top condition for as long as you choose to continue maintenance.

Now that you too know how to turn a shed into a gym, why don't you give it a go and save yourself a shed-load of money in the longterm (sorry, had to!).

And if you do, send me a message/leave a comment if any of this info has helped - it's always good to hear from fellow shednasium-goers! 🙂

If this post helped you in any way, or if you've got any questions - please leave a comment below, or contact me directly!

About the Author

I'm the Garden Room Guy. Or as most people know me, Sef. I started this blog to document my own garden room project. If it helps you at all, please let me know! Sef

  • Alicia says:

    This was extremely helpful! Looking to convert our shed over the next break.

  • Jon says:

    Thank you for posting this. I’m also doing a cheap shed build as those lovely log cabin style sheds are out of budget. Definitely going with a tall shed and beefing up the floor.

  • Gavin says:

    some pictures of the finished shed-gym would be great

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